Feeds:
Posts
Comments

La Galleria di Sopra The Galleria di Sopra is tucked away on a side street in the bustling town of Albano, at the foot of the Castelli Romani. This area of Rome is known for white wines, the most well-known of which is Frascati, with its fertile lands, like the stunning Lake Albano, owing much to the area’s volcanic past.

This stylish restaurant is run by Andrea and Claudio, two brothers who are keen to showcase local, seasonal, organic produce from around the area. While I have eaten many times in this area, this was my first visit to La Galleria, and I have to confess that I only came across it as my partner had won a voucher to eat there from an online competition.

Fears of a table by the loo, the leftover menu and ‘cheap seats’ service were soon swept away, as we were presented with a tasting menu in a sophisticated setting of a coverted granary, and a meal that took us almost three hours to finish.  As it was January, the seasonal vegetable of the day was broccoli, which was accompanied by other seasonal favourites – borage and chestnuts.

After broccoli starters, we went on to gnocchetti with chestnuts, mushroom and borage, followed by ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ locally sourced organic beef. A kiwi sorbet to refresh the palatte and then onto the chocolate cake and chestnut fritters with cream.

Each course was explained by Andrea – where it came from, how it was grown/raised (I began to feel I knew the cow featured in our main course personally) and an explanation of how it was cooked. The bottle of local ‘Emma’ cesanese wine which was recommended to go with the beef on a ‘like it or send it back ‘ promise, stayed where it was.

Ok, this is not the cheapest place to eat in Rome, but for a special occasion, its well worth booking a table. The bill without the voucher would have been around 120 euros for 2, including the wine. And well worth it I have to say. One of the best meals I have eaten in Italy and just a stone’s throw from Lake Albano, for a post lunch walk (or stagger in my case)

La Galleria di Sopra
Via L. Murialdo 9
Albano
Tel: 06 932 2791
Mob: +39 333 608 3076
www.lagalleriadisopra.it
Closed on Mondays

Get to Albano on the train from Termin to explore the town. To reach the lake and area, you really need a car.

Once a place to see your horses and cattle, as well as to watch a public execution or two, Rome’s Campo De’ Fiori is now home to the vegetable and flower market held every weekday, as well as packed tourist priced bars in the evening.

But arrive around 2pm just when the stalls are packing away for the day, find a comfy spot and watch for free the national sport of ‘How many things can I stack onto my Ape?’

On top of the ancient Vespa Vans are piled more things than the laws of gravity can possibly justify. Enough to take home your crates of unsold oranges, apples, potatoes and water melons but what about your cash register, your tables and your chairs? No problem.

Even room for the dog and the mother as long as the driver does not mind standing as he bounces off over the cobbles.

Civita di Bagnoregio is an abandoned hilltop town about 90 miles north of Rome, an area of unspoilt beauty not far from the beautful Umbiran town of Orvieto.   Perched on a rock, slowly the residents left at parts of it tumbled into he valley below, until today when around 12 locals remain resident and lots of cats. 

You will need to park your car at the bottom and then walk along the amazing bridge that stretches over the valley to the town, with a steep climb at the other end.  Then spend a couple of hours wandering the small streets, enjoying the views, the small church and eating lunch at one of the restaurants before meandering back to the car. If you fancy eating at a less touristy place, then after your visit head to Lubriano which is about 4km away, and try the local trattoria ‘Il Vecchio Mulino’.  Tel: 0761 780 505.  The food is great and if you are very lucky, they will seat you on the balcony with amazing views towards Civita di Bagnoregio.

Just a short walk from Basilica San Paolo Metro Station, Al Peperoncino is a great little find, with a menu that includes tasty pizzas, pasta and meat dishes.  The large inside seating area is decorated with a mish mash of shelves filled with wine bottles and a huge ‘penny farthing’ bicycle which set against the red and white checked tablecloths brings a bright welcoming feel to the restaurant.  There are also some tables outside.

I came with a friend and we enjoyed antipastos of bruschetta and suppli which were fresh and crispy, then we had two tasty pizzas (a margherita and a melanzane) whilst the table next to us ordered from the grill and were served what seemed to be half a cow.  Too full to manage a dessert, we were brought a complementary sparking wine and strawberry drink.  With 2 small beers and a bottle of water, the bill came to 24 euros with no hint of a tourist price or cover charge (we spoke in English throughout).

So if you are around this area, pop in and give it a try and report back to TravelTales with your comments.

Al Peperoncino Bistecceria & Sfizi
Via Ostiense 369/375
Tel: 06 54 101 92
http://www.alpeperoncino.it/

Look once at the picture and you may think that this is another elaborate example of ceiling art.  Look again and you will see the patterns on the walls and ceilings, and even the lampshades, are made up of old bones. 

Prepare to be spooked at the sight of thousands of skulls and bones artfuly arranged in the crypt under the Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappucini Church on Via Veneto.  Five vaulted chapels are filled with the remains of Capuchin Friars, around 4000 skeletons in all.

The inscription as you leave in Latin reads:
‘What you are, we used to be. What we are, you will become’.

Endless fascination for children, but not one for the fainthearted….

Santa Maria della Concezione Church
Via Veneto 27 (Barberini end)
Open: 9-12  then 3-6
Entrance is by donation, minimum 1 euro.

Older Posts »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.